After a week relaxing in what must be one of the most relaxing places to be and having visited one temple after another, Wat Pak Than being my favourite and having visited the amazing waterfall Kuang Si Falls and swam below the thundering falls of water, it was time for something new.
The beautiful goddess Astrid and her friend Eva both from Copenhagen suggested, well Astrid made the suggestion and Eva was enthused. She said we should hire bicycles and cycle into the hinterland.
What a great idea I thought, not having cycled for years didn’t seem to bother me. Both the Copenhageners cycled most week ends but they said that the countyside in Denemark is really flat so they probably aren’t that great anyway. After a few beers we agreed that cycling we would go.
Next morning, after visiting the town’s mainstreet at 6am to see the Monk’s daily alms ritual, where the local people donate food to the monks as they wander about the town wearing their red and orange robes, spending time watching the cermony allows one to be drawn into the quiteness of the day and the slow passing of its time, we met and had breakfast.
Over breakfast we discussed where we should go. Astrid said she would love to vist Tae Sea Falls which lie on the River Nam Khan. That girl loves waterfalls so a decision was made. The Falls it was and we would swim below the falling water.
When we checked with the bike hire how far the falls were they said about 15 km, a distance that just seemed right.
We hired three bikes. They were in reasonable shape though they had an irritating habit of slipping gear. We packed water,bread and sun cream on the back carriers and set off into the early morning traffic.
The road to Nam Khan was easy to find as it was main road to Vientianne. Cycling through the town was easy and my lack of experience didn’t show at all. Cycling seems to be something you never forget once learnt. After a minute or two back in the saddle it was as if I had never left it.
Within a short time we were out in the countryside. On either side of the road tall semi tropical trees grew and formed a dappled canopy above as the trees grew out to meet the ones on the otherside.
The strengthening morning sun was lessened by the overhead leaves and their shadows seemed to dance on the road as a slight breeze above moved them slightly
As we cycled together it felt so beautiful, good company, good fun and a plan ahead for the day.
About 3km outside the town the road took a sharp left. As the turn straightened out we could only see mountains and hills ahead and the road continuing straight up through a valley between opposing hills.
The girls were excited. They haven’t cycled real hills before only the small slopes when out on their mountain bikes. I exclaimed that I thought Denmark was flat so how can you mountain bike. It transpired that every third Sunday they go mountain biking in a local park where the tracks are designed as some serious terrain.
As we cycled up hill I was puffing panting and strughling while the girls were forging ahead. Soon they were in the distance as I stopped regularily for a break and some water. Never going cycling with mountain bikers again I promised.
Eventually, I reached the summit of the hill and the view over the Nam Khan valley was stunning. I sat for awhile admiring the view and watching Astrid and Eva negotiate hair pin after hair pin as they powered down the multi turn road.
Eventually I was back in the saddle and free wheeled down hill. At the bottom the girls were waiting and we picnicked along the river bank. These people were full of surprises as they took from their bags some breads, tomatoes,chicken and boiled eggs.
After sharing the feast we crossed the river in the small boat and swam in the lower rock pools. The falls weren’t the most impressive, especially as it was dry season. But swimming was a great way to spend the time. The sweat from the bike just washed off.
Much later we set out up river to our bikes. As we were about to head back up the hill the way we had come, the boat man shouts “no go that way go new road turn right”.
After struggling up one of the highest hills ever it turned out that a new road had been built around the base of the mountain following the lie of the river back to Luang Prabang. While the road was at the time unfinished and hence not signed posted it was still great for cyclying.
Even the mountain biking Danes enjoyed the trip back.
On my next cycling trip I will check the contours first.