We had’nt planned to hike while on a few days break on Folegandros, one of the more south western Cyclades Islands, but then we hadn’t considered how the Meltemi might change our plans.
On our first day on the island the Meltemi, the annual wind which blows from the north picked up to a lively pace of force 5 on the Beaufort Scale. The small tour boats to the beaches and caves on the southern coast were cancelled, the water was too choppy. Lying on the beach was still a good option but we decided after seeing signs for some hiking trails in the Chora to combine both. A hike to the south from the Chora followed by a swim and relaxation on one of the south facing beaches seemed attractive.
Hike Route 1 to Agali
This route starts in middle square of the Chora (the main town of the island, which sits perched on top of the north facing cliffs). The starting point, duration and destination are well marked. This route is called walk 1 and marked with red paint.
It took us about two hours to reach Agali. Walking boots are advisable as the the terrain is rugged in places. Bring poles if you have them.
The hike initially, took us down below the Chora onto a trail which wove its way between the hundreds of farm terraces. Most of the terraces are still in tack but have been unused for many years. There are some olive and fig trees growing but not much else.
The trail works its way below and around the town and eventually rejoins the road.
The walk continues along the road towards the village of Ano Meria for about 300 metres. Before you reach the old windmills there is a Walk 1 sign on the left side of the road. It gives the times to Christos and Fira.
Christos as you will find out is a small, white washed church overlooking the Agali Bay.
Fira is a small beach, marked as nudist, between Christos and Agali. When we reached the beach there were only 6 people, two of whom were nude.
I hope you brought some water and maybe a picnic as there are no shops or tavernas along the path.
Back to the main road. After taking the track for walk 1, you will follow the contours of the hills but never rise very high. The trail meanders through the old terrace farms, passed the occassional olive and fig trees and alongside and between dry stone walls. In September the landscape has a yellow orange tone. Yellow from the drying grasses and orange from the underlying clay.
On the tourist map the trail is well marked. Down passed Agios Georgios and a turn right at Agios Triada. If these names mean little to you don’t worry as the track is well marked with little signs and the number 1 and red paint blotches.
The route was peaceful with some birds singing. Under foot was easy. At times the little track was cobbled, at other times it was just compact red clay and jutting stones.
A stop at the little church of Christos is recommended. It usually is locked but you can sit on the wall and admire the view over Agali bay far below.
After leaving the church the track splits for Fira Beach and Agali.
We missed the junction and continued onto Fira. The track entered some dried river beds. Walking in the dried river bed you can see the strata of the layers of clay and rock, on the high river banks. The stones, which are everywhere, can be seen at least a metre below normal ground level.
From here to Agali the going got rough. There was a bit of scrambling down and up some gravelly inclines.
Perhaps, if we had followed the correct spur of the track it would have been more comfortable.
Overall the trail was pleasant and countryside interesting. Boots are needed as the path is stoney in places.
Don’t forget your swimming clothes as the water in Agali Bay is beautiful and clear.
Walk 6 Chora to Livadi
This walk takes you across the hills passed the tiny village of Petousis and down through Livadi Village and onto Livadi Beach and the port.
There are no tavernas until you arrive at Livadi Beach. The camp site, should it be open serves food. Otherwise its onto Port Karavostassis for lunch.
This walk is marked from the Chora as walk 6. At various points, but not often enough you will see the number 6 or red paint marks.
Like walk 1, boots are required. Bring sun cream and water and maybe lunch.
It took us 2 hours 40 minutes but we weren’t rushing.
The hardest part was finding the trail after we left the Chora. The trail starts off along the dirt packed road leading to the Helipad.
From the bypass road around the Chora you can actually see the intended route, a dirt road as it crosses the brow of the hill to the south below the telecommunications masts. Finding it from the Chora is harder.
We found it by heading out along the Ano Meria road about a half km from the petrol station. It is clearly marked on the left handside of the road.
The track rises as it follows the route that leads to the helipad. From there you have a good view looking back over the Chora.
After the helipad the track is rugged as it follows some old goat trails down into the Petousis Valley. Along the side of the hills the track is very stoney, the countryside is barren and there are no terraces like along walk 1.
When the path reaches the valley floor it turns left towards Petousis Village passing some walled fields and herds of goats.
When it reaches the Petousis road about 200 metres below the village it continues on to Livadi as walk PL (Petousis Livadia) . This marking will probably change soon as the other route markings look very new, so the PL sign may be changed to number 6.
At this point you could head down the road away from Petousis and rejoin the Port to Chora road for a walk back to the village.
The trail PL continues downhill across some limestone outcrops. Here the going is a bit hard so you need to watch your step.
When we arrived at the back of Livadi village we were surprised at its small size, just a few houses.
We continued on the cement road to Livadi beach and then onto the port area for lunch.
We left the marker on the Ano Meria road at 12:20 and arrived in the port village at 14:50.
It was a nice walk and lunch was great.
See below some videos and photos of the Cyclades Islands