This must be one of the most spectacular drives in the world.
Its best done in your own or a hired car. Many, for convenience go by bus,coach tour, or train but if you have the time self drive is the best.
The 300km drive from Banff to Jasper, in the Canadian Rockies, takes you through some of the most amazing scenery, you could ever imagine.
We flew into Calgary Airport in June. The weather on arrival was glorious. Twenty eight degrees heatwave. We picked up the hire car in the airport and drove the virtually straight road to Banff. We arrived in Banff an hour or so before sunset, having driven through some spectatular deep mountain valleys. The temperature was still glorious as we sat having a beer outside our hotel as the sun disappeared for the day.
Next day, the temperature dropped to 15 degrees and the sky was overcast. Over the next few days, as the temperature was lower, we were able to do some hiking trails around Banff. They were pleasant and not too strenuous.
We awoke on the morning of our drive along the Icefields Parkway to a very overcast sky and temperatures of about 7 degrees. The temperature had fallen over 20 degrees over the course of a few days and would stay like that for the next ten days. Oh this is Canada.
Photos and Videos Icefields Parkway
We set off on the drive. It probably takes about 6 hours max but we were giving ourselves 4 days. Not that we are very slow drivers but we planned to stop at some great locations along the route.
Within the first ten km, it started to snow. Turning on the wipers made virtually no difference. We pulled into the side of the road to wait the snow to pass. A passing Raven, seeing us stop came and paid a visit. He strutted around the outside of the car, squawking or making Raven sounds, hoping we might given him some tidbits. Oh, Canada is different.
The snow eventually easied up and turned to sleet. We continued on our way through this glorious mountain country side, hardly able to see our way never mind the mountain peaks, deep ravines or over hanging glaciers.
Our first night stop was in Lake Louise. The following day which was clear allowed us to do a hike. We set off for the Tea House on the showers of Lake Agnes and had some tea and coffee. After the break, we walked along the trail to the upper end of Lake Agnes. Here there were only a few people, most walk to the Tea House and stay at that end of the lake.
Crossing the top end of the lake towards the Bee Hive, a tall mountain peak and our objective, we had to walk through deep snow. At that time of the year the snow remains below the Devil’s Thumb until at least the end of June.
The track is well worn so it was easy enough to follow the trail across the lake’s head. We had walking boots and poles. The poles were useful walking through the snow.
On the south side of Lake Agnes we followed the path and ascended to the top of the Bee Hive. The day was clearer, so the view was amazing looking over Lake Louise, Lake Agnes and way beyond. After our packed lunch at the Bee Hive hut we descended into the Valley of the Plain of the six glaciers. This is a valley that runs inland from the upper end of Lake Louise.
As we descended into the valley the sky changed from reasonable bright sunshine to dark foreboding clouds. When we reached the valley floor we could hear thunder in the distance. After walking a few km further up the valley ligthening was forking in the high mountains. We then decided to turn back towards lake Louise.
By the time we reached the lake the rain was thundering down. Sheltering made little difference as the rain just poured through the trees. Despite wearing, rain trousers and jackets, we still got fairly wet, but this is Canada, beautiful, sunny, wet, glorious.
The following two days we did some further hikes. The cloud cover was a bit less. Throughout the day it varied, sometimes you could see the mountains, twenty minutes later they were clothed in a mountain haze. But the hiking was fabulous.
The following day, again very cloudy with some patches of sun, we continued on our jouney along the Icefields Parkway.
Our next stop for the night was in a hotel overlooking the Athabasca Glacier.
As we arrived the sun made an appearance. We were able to walk to the foot of the retreating glacier. The view of the glacier, reflecting the afternoon sun, alone made the trip worthwhile. Along the walking trail we could see some ice caves and dense blue ice forming.
While the ice glacier looked beneign, there were warning signs, advising visitors to stay within the boundaries. Some visitors have disappeared down crevasses in the ice.
That night we had dinner in the restaurant overlooking the glacier. As we sat down at our window table it started to snow, soon a blizzard was raging. All we could see was snow turning to sleet as it rolled down the window glass.
As the waiter, brought the main course, the snow eased and then stopped. The clouds suddenly lifted. Then, about 300 metres in the distance, the glacier appeared out of the clouds, lit by a full moon. It was amazing while it lasted, which as we knew by then, this was Canada, and things change quickly.
Next morning we had a bus tour which brought us right onto the glacier. The clouds were down, the wind whipped up, it was freezing and we could see nothing but swirling snow.
Later that day, we continued along the almost invisible Icefields Parkway. The sun stayed at home and the clouds were low.
We reached our destination, Jasper and did some hiking. If we were disappointed by the drive through the Icefields Parkway, then we were thrilled by our trip to glorious Lake Maligne.
After a few days hiking around Jasper, we had to set off back to Banff, Calagry and the airport.
On the day of our departure we awoke to a stunningly sunny day. After ten days of almost complete absence, the sun returned and stayed visible in the sky.
Our return trip along the Icefield Parkways was the most fantastic you could imagine.
The high mountain peaks, glaciers and river torrents were just a once in a life time event.
But this is Canada, see it today because it may be gone tomorrow.
We stopped at aqua marine coloured lakes, halted at glacier viewing points, walked along the banks of raging rivers, all under a beautiful clear blue sky. Oh Canada is wonderful when you can see it.